On Cooking Southern: Kick Off Fall Cookery With Pre-Prepped Ingredients

SOUTHERNISM OF THE WEEK
Foundered: What happens when something sinks or begins to collapse or cave in … recovery is possible if given care and attention … like some football teams we all know and love.

THESE AUTUMN DISHES DON’T FALL SHORT ON FLAVOR

Before the great foundering down in Florida last weekend, our region enjoyed a brief break from the unremitting late summer heat.

For an energizing few days, we all got to luxuriate in crisp breezes rattling heat-browned leaves off the trees. As always, they danced away to be replaced by Indian Summer. But those cool breezes and chill evenings served their annual purpose – giving heart to summer-weary souls who really, really would like to break out some heavy-duty tailgating feasts and open up a few windows and doors.

It happens every year. Just when it seems the grass will self-combust from the high temps and lack of water, Mother Nature provides a wisp of hope in the form of a storm system that blows away the miasma of heavy-hanging humidity.

The temporary chill is a harbinger of changing seasons, resetting our internal clocks. It inspires us to replace ragged pots of geraniums with lush mums, and to resurrect family recipes for autumnal favorites such as fresh apple cake, pumpkin muffins and anything containing pork.

We are fortunate that the local farmers markets are still in full throttle, featuring Fall fare such as squash, eggplant, pumpkins, apples, honey, bagged nuts and baked goods. It’s time to stock up in order to prep and freeze fixings for those holidays that will be here before we know it.

But let’s all admit it: Sometimes a health-conscious consumer needs to get the food on the table with as little fuss as possible. Prepping farmers market produce is time the cook will never get back – worth it when fixing a meal for a crowd, but in short supply during a busy work week when cooking for one or two.

Fast food is not an acceptable alternative option. That’s why this week I worked up menus using minimally altered, bagged and pre-prepped cheese, prosciutto, bacon, butternut squash and kale greens. The results were both satisfactory and economical.

Within weeks our landscape will transform into shimmering layers of gold and russet contrasting against brilliant blue skies. This cook wants to spend as much time as possible enjoying it.

PORK CHOPS AND APPLES
Try variations of this recipe, such as adding bourbon or cognac to the Dijon cream sauce before transferring the dish to the baking pan; or adding apple cider vinegar, maple syrup and sage instead of the Dijon cream to the broth-based sauce.

3 or 4 bone-in center cut pork chops (1 to 1-1/4 inches thick)

1 tsp kosher salt

1/2 tsp fine ground black pepper

2-3 T extra light olive oil

2 Granny Smith or other tart apples, or pre-cut apple wedges

1 large white onion, sliced paper-thin

1/3 c chicken broth

1 tsp ground thyme

1 c heavy whipping cream

1/4 c Dijon mustard

Preheat oven to 450˚F. Rinse chops and pat dry on both sides. Sprinkle both sides with salt and pepper. If using whole apples, use an apple slicer to core and cut the apple wedges. For either home-cut or packaged sliced apple wedges, cut each apple wedge in half lengthwise to create thinner wedges.

Heat oil on medium in a large cast iron or stainless oven-proof skillet. Add chops to hot oil and sear both sides, about 5-6 minutes per side, until golden brown. Remove chops from skillet and add the apples and onions. Stir to coat and cover for about 2 minutes. Remove cover and continue simmering, stirring occasionally, until apples are browned and onions are transparent and browned.

Use a slotted spoon to remove the apples and onions from the skillet. Immediately add chicken broth and thyme. Bring back to a simmer, using a wooden spoon to loosen brown bits (fond) from the skillet bottom and sides.

While broth is heating, whisk the cream and mustard together in a small bowl. The mustard will thicken the cream. Add mixture to simmering broth and stir continually to prevent scorching.

Remove skillet from heat when cream mixture becomes bubbly. Add the chops, turning once to coat both sides completely. Top with the apples and onions. Ladle cream broth over the top and place skillet into oven. Bake for about 10 minutes. Reduce temperature to 425˚F, and bake an additional 30-45 minutes, until liquid bubbles and tops become golden (do not burn).

POTATOES AND BUTTERNUT SQUASH AU GRATIN
Traditional au gratin potatoes are composed of layers of potatoes, flour, grated cheese and onions. This butternut squash variation uses a bacon-flavored onion-and-cheese sauce. Feel free to omit the bacon and bacon drippings, and sauté the onion in 2 T of extra light olive oil. The dish is so rich you’ll want to serve it with a salad and a grill meat instead of with other heavily sauced dishes.

4 medium Idaho potatoes

12-oz pkg cubed butternut squash

1 sweet onion

4 pieces bacon (or 2 T bacon bits)

2 T all-purpose flour

2 c chicken broth, divided, plus more if needed

8-oz pkg four cheese Mexican blend shredded cheese

2 slices multigrain bread, grated into crumbs

2-3 T butter, melted

Peel the potatoes and place them, unsliced, in about 2 inches of water in a 3 qt saucepan with double boiler inserted. Place the squash cubes in the double boiler above the potatoes. Bring the water to a boil and cook for about 10 minutes. Drain, reserve the squash, and remove potatoes to a cutting board. When cool enough to handle, cut thin slices from the potatoes.

Slice the onion into paper-thin slices. Fry the bacon in a skillet until crispy. Drain bacon and crumble. Divide into two parts. Sauté the onion slices in the bacon drippings (about 2-3 T) until transparent. Stir in the flour. As the mixture becomes dry, add the first cup of chicken broth. Simmer, stirring constantly, and add more chicken broth. When the liquid resumes simmering, stir in the cheese. Simmer, stirring, until uniformly thickened. Turn off heat.

Preheat oven to 350˚F. Grease bottom of an 8- or 9-inch baking dish with nonstick cooking spray. Position a layer of sliced potatoes on the bottom, one slice slightly overlapping the previous slice. Spread half the cheese sauce over the potatoes. Sprinkle with half the crumbled bacon.

Spread the butternut squash cubes evenly over the sauce. Cover with another layer of sliced potatoes, each slice overlapping the previous layer. Cover with remaining cheese sauce.

Sprinkle breadcrumbs over the cheese sauce and press down slightly to remove air pockets. Punch about 10 holes in the crumbs with a sharp knife. Sprinkle with remaining bacon. Drizzle melted butter evenly over the crumbs.

Bake on middle rack for about 30 minutes, until bubbling. Yields 6-8 servings.

KICKY KALE
Remove kale from the package and rinse well. Drain and remove large stem pieces. Tear or chop large pieces into small bits before using. This dish is so flavorful that even a small amount works well as a condiment on roast meat. I like to pair it with roasted chicken and risotto or steamed basmati rice.

1 stick (1/2 c) butter

1 c fine-chopped sweet onion

4-oz pkg chopped prosciutto

8-oz pkg chopped kale, large pieces chopped fine

1-1/2 tsp Creole seasoning such as Tony’s or Slap Ya Mama

2 c chicken broth

Kosher salt to taste

Heat butter in a deep-sided skillet. Add the onion and prosciutto; sauté until onion is transparent. Add the kale, toss several times to coat, and cover for about 5 minutes. Uncover and stir. Add chicken broth and Creole seasoning and stir to blend.

Simmer, stirring occasionally, until liquid is absorbed. Season with salt to taste, only if necessary, because the prosciutto and Creole seasoning contain salt.

Laurie Triplette is a writer, historian and accredited appraiser of fine arts, dedicated to preserving Southern culture and foodways. Author of the award-winning community family cookbook GIMME SOME SUGAR, DARLIN’, and editor of ZEBRA TALES (Tailgating Recipes from the Ladies of the NFLRA), Triplette is a member of the Association of Food Journalists, Southern Foodways Alliance and the Southern Food and Beverage Museum. Check out the GIMME SOME SUGAR, DARLIN’ website and follow Laurie’s food adventures on Facebook and Twitter.