On Cooking Southern: Breaking the Fast during Ramadan (or Any Ol’ Time)

SOUTHERNISM OF THE WEEK
Not from around here: A sympathetic observation about a person’s origins in a context wherein the person does or says something inappropriate to the situation. Implies that person doesn’t know any better because he or she is from the next county over, from north of the Mason-Dixon Line, or from a foreign country (REALLY not from around here), bless their li’l ol’ hearts …

SHARE THE LOVE DURING FAST TIMES IN YOKNAPATAWHA

Holy Fast Times, folks! June 18 starts the month-long period of Ramadan for Muslims.

During my recent two weeks in Morocco, everyone was getting ready for the upcoming Ramadan season. Similar in its fashion to the Christian world’s preparation leading up to Christmas, the Ramadan preparation entails lots of baking, stocking up on supplies, charitable giving, and studying the Koran (Qur’an).

Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca, Morocco

Most Mississippians are unfamiliar with Ramadan and other religious practices of the 1.6+ billion Muslims who currently comprise about 23 percent of the world population. Albeit still a small faith community in Mississippi, their numbers in the Magnolia State have reached almost 5,000. There are about 7 million Muslims in the U.S.

Ramadan occurs during the ninth month of the Islamic calendar, which is called Hijri. Abbreviated to AH for the Latin term anno Hegirae — “in the year of the Hijira,” the Hijri calendar is lunar based, containing 12 months in a year of 354 days. Year One was 622 AD (ACE), when Muhammad emigrated from Mecca to Medina. Because the calendar is lunar, Ramadan floats throughout the year, sometimes occurring during winter months when the daylight hours are shorter.

Considered the holiest time of the year in the Islamic faith, Ramadan is considered one of the five pillars of Islam. The other four pillars are (1) Shahadah: Testimony of faith in God (Allah) as the one true God, with neither partner nor son); (2) Salat: Prayer five times a day; (3) Zakat (Zukat): Support of the needy (“zukat,” means purification and growth); and (4) Hajj: Pilgrimage to Makkah (Mecca) for those who are physically and financially able during the 12th month of the Islamic calendar.

During the 30 days of Ramadan, Muslims around the world abstain from eating, drinking, sex and such vices as smoking and cursing between dawn and sunset each day. Muslims believe that, by curbing desires through the fast, they can better understand the less fortunate, become closer to God, and achieve greater patience in all things. Ramadan fasting is obligatory for all Muslims except the sick, the elderly, pre-pubescent children, travellers, and pregnant women.

Every day during the holy month, the faithful arise between 3:30 and 4:30 am to share a meal called Sahur (sahoor) before the fast begins at dawn. The first of the daily prayers is offered as dawn breaks. At sunset, the fast is broken with fresh or dried dates, followed by a light appetizer or soup. This break-the-fast time is called Iftar, and has become a holiday occasion for friends and family to share the meals during Iftar parties.

The Iftar parties include multiple courses, capped with special Ramadan desserts reflecting the Muslim world’s strong passion for such sweets as Shebakia, honey-drenched sesame cookies; Baklava drenched in honey and cane sugar syrup; and candies such as Turkish toffee.

As during the remaining months of the year, the last daily prayer during Ramadan is offered after dinner, around 10 pm, and the cycle begins again.

MOROCCAN FAVORITES

Moroccans create every meal as though for a crowd. Like our Southern cooks, the Moroccan cook(s) will be anxious … and possibly insulted … if every bite is not consumed.

One might wonder why Moroccans as a group are not fat. My conclusion was that they might be the healthiest people on the planet because their cuisine contains so many healthful, organically grown ingredients and so few processed foods. PLUS they walk everywhere … and except in the desert, it’s uphill both ways.

Moroccans love salads. In fact, the most famous “Moroccan Salad” of the same name consists of seven side dishes presented simultaneously. They usually include a cold potato salad, a marinated beet salad, a cooked carrot salad or dip, a roasted green pepper and tomato salad (also a dip), cooked lentils and peas, roasted cauliflower, and some sort of roasted eggplant.

The national main course in Morocco is the Tagine. Usually meat, chicken, lamb, beef, or fish-based, the tagine is a stew that also contains a variety of vegetables, often seven of them, seasoned with preserved lemons, olives, or peppers. The dish is named after the cooking device — a shallow dish topped by a conical lid terminating in a steam hole at the top. The two-part container was designed for cooking on a wood fire or in an oven. Think of it as a Berber-style Dutch oven.

Cafe Clock kitchen

The favorite Moroccan break-the-fast dish during Ramadan is a hearty soup called Harira. This national soup of Morocco was an invention of the Berbers of the Maghreb, the region of western North Africa that lies between the coastal Mediterranean, the Atlas Mountains and the Western Sahara. (The region includes Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia, Libya and Mauritania.) Harira may be made as a vegetarian or meat-flavored dish, with or without wheat pasta and egg. The variations are endless, and all are delicious and filling.

And then there’s couscous, the Berbers’ equivalent to rice, made from crushed semolina wheat. Couscous should be steamed, not boiled. The finished dish serves as a conveyance for meat, vegetable or fruit combinations. American stores often sell only packaged “instant” (precooked) couscous, which is the equivalent of instant grits. Need I say more? Look for the good stuff in specialty markets or whole foods stores.

Chef Souad

During my one-on-one cooking instruction with Chef Souad at the Café Clock in old Fes, we prepared Harira, some Moroccan salad, a lamb and vegetable tagine, and a date dessert pastry. We purchased the needed ingredients at the market, including fresh lamb slaughtered early that morning according to strict Moslem Halaal requirements. Chef Souad and her Medina marketplace vendors had me taste examples of other delicious dishes such as Bissara Soup (pureed bean soup).

Her cooking-class kitchen was a happy one, filled with sunlight and humming. I confess, at one point we did the food-taster’s happy dance as the dishes came together over conversation about children, family, and cooking experiences. I’ll gladly share my knives and spices with Souad any time. She’s family.

HARIRA
The simplest harira consists of assorted vegetables thickened with tomato paste and cornstarch. The vermicelli favored in the soup is a small version that we can find here in stores specializing in Mediterranean and Middle Eastern ingredients.

Harira

1 liter water in a large stock pot

5 ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped

1 medium onion, chopped

1 c chopped celery, including heart leaves

2-3 cloves garlic, minced

1 can of chickpeas (about 14-15 oz)

2 tsp extra virgin olive oil

1/2 c chopped fresh parsley

1/4 to 1/2 c fresh coriander, chopped (or 2 T ground coriander)

6-oz can of tomato paste

1 tsp ground ginger

1/4 tsp ground black pepper

1/2 tsp ground turmeric

Fine vermicelli

Kosher salt to taste, optional

1/2 c cornstarch dissolved in water to paste consistency

1 c fine vermicelli

Additional chopped parsley and coriander

Wedge of lemon

Combine the tomatoes, onion, and garlic and add to the water in stockpot. Bring to a boil and stir in the tomato paste. Add the spices, olive oiland herbs, and simmer for 20 minutes, Stir in the chickpeas and vermicelli and bring back to a simmer. Stir in the dissolved cornstarch and simmer until thickened, at least 10 minutes. Top the individual servings with garnish of parsley and coriander and a wedge of lemon. Serve with fresh bread.

TAKTOUKA GREEN PEPPER SALAD
This cooked pepper and tomato salad reminds me of our raw marinated salads containing the same ingredients.

Taktouka green pepper salad

4 grilled green peppers, peeled and chopped

4 ripe beefsteak tomatoes

5 tsp extra virgin olive oil

4-6 cloves garlic (up to a whole head)

Handful of fresh parsley, chopped

Handful of fresh coriander, chopped, or 2 T ground coriander

1 tsp cumin

Pinch of kosher salt

1/2 tsp chili powder

1 tsp paprika

To grill the green bell peppers, place whole peppers on open flames of gas stovetop, turning every minute or so to char evenly. If not using a gas stove, cut the peppers, deseed them, and broil with skin side facing the broiler until the skin is charred. Seal charred peppers immediately in a large ziplock bag and allow to cool at least 30 minutes.

While peppers are cooling, prepare the remaining ingredients. To peel the peppers once cooled, remove from baggie and scrape off the skin. Chop deseeded peppers.

Combine tomatoes, olive oil, garlic, spices and herbs in skillet. Sauté on medium heat, stirring to prevent scorching. Add the peppers and simmer another 5 minutes. Remove from heat and serve while hot along with bread, or chill and serve cool as a dip with bread.

LAMB AND VEGETABLE TAGINE
Like our stews, tagine measurements may be approximate. This version is cooked on stovetop.

Lamb preparations for tagine

1-1/2 c water, divided

2-4 lb fresh lamb (shoulder or leg meat)

2 yellow onions, sliced

Handful of chopped parsley

1 ripe beefsteak tomato, sliced

2-3 cloves crushed garlic

2-3 hot peppers such as chili peppers

Bunch of cilantro, chopped

1 tsp ground ginger

Tagine prep

1/2 tsp ground turmeric

Kosher salt and black pepper to taste

2 large carrots, peeled and sliced

1 to 2 large potatoes, peeled and sliced lengthwise

1 c fresh green beans, ends snapped and strung

Seasonal vegetables such as okra, peas, cubes of squash or pumpkin

Put half the water in a pot with the lamb, salt and pepper, onion, and parsley. Simmer for 1-1/2 hours or cook in pressure cooker until the meat is fork tender.

Combine the tomatoes and olive oil and simmer on low heat about 10-20 minutes. Add the garlic, herbs, peppers, and spices and simmer another 10 minutes. Add the carrots and potatoes and simmer until tender. Work in the green beans and seasonal veggies and cooked meat in its broth. Simmer until veggies have cooked. Serves 2-6.

DATE AND PASTRY ROLLS
Orange flower water may be made from scratch, or purchased in the specialty section of the store (I found mine at the liquor store).

Date and pastry rolls

2 c fresh dates, quartered, seeds removed

2-3 tsp white granulated sugar

1/4 c crushed almonds

4 T roasted sesame seeds or fine-chopped walnuts

Generous pinch of ground cinnamon

Orange flower water

Packaged phyllo (filo) dough, thawed)

1/2 c melted butter, divided

Preheat oven to 350˚F. Line a cookie sheet with parchment paper. Use hands to combine chopped fresh dates with sugar, almonds and walnuts or sesame seeds in a large bowl. Work in enough butter to turn the mixture into a thick paste. Sprinkle with orange flower water and rework the paste to blend.

Pinch off and roll the paste into cigar-lengths. Position in center of one-to-two sheets of phyllo. Wrap the dough around the rolled paste and twist ends. Slather with butter.

Bake about 20 minutes, turning the pastry once. Remove from heat and cut into lengths. Serve with fresh cherries. For even more extravagant flavor, spoon honey over the hot pastries and roll them in crushed pistachios before serving.

Laurie Triplette is a writer, historian and accredited appraiser of fine arts, dedicated to preserving Southern culture and foodways. Author of the award-winning community family cookbook GIMME SOME SUGAR, DARLIN’, and editor of ZEBRA TALES (Tailgating Recipes from the Ladies of the NFLRA), Triplette is a member of the Association of Food Journalists, Southern Foodways Alliance and the Southern Food and Beverage Museum. Check out the GIMME SOME SUGAR, DARLIN’ website and follow Laurie’s food adventures on Facebook and Twitter.